The Morning Loupe
Thursday, 3 September 2026
Mixed signalsSmall Stones Lead as Gold’s Rally Reshapes the Jewelry Counter
De Beers' realized rough price sits at $110/ct, down 37% year on year for the quarter. Producers are still defending price by holding volume back rather than chasing weak demand. GIA's report of a lab-grown crystal shaped to mimic natural rough adds a verification cost at one of the least-screened points in the pipeline, so screen goods at intake, not after cutting.
RAPI firmed 0.43% for 1 ct goods this month but rose 2.54% for 0.50 ct goods, showing a clear rotation of strength into smaller stones. The practical takeaway: restocking is concentrating in smaller commercial sizes, so weight buying there rather than waiting for solitaire demand to follow.
Gold jumped 11% this month to $4,478/oz, and Greater China jewelers are leaning on the metal to carry results. That suggests shoppers are treating jewelry more as a store of value than as a discretionary diamond purchase. The shekel weakened 1.83% against the dollar this week (USD/ILS 3.03), a modest tailwind for dollar-priced Israeli exporters.
The US Treasury pushed its deadline for grandfathered Russian-origin diamond imports out to September 2027, giving holders of documented legacy stock more time to move inventory without a forced discount. The desk takeaway: provenance record-keeping is now a permanent operating cost, not a one-off scramble.
Vicenzaoro September (Sep 4–8, Vicenza) opens tomorrow, offering the first read on European autumn gold and jewelry sentiment before the Hong Kong September fairs later this month.